Stroll down the cosmetics aisle at your local grocery store and you'll find an array of "age-defying" products in fun, colorful packaging—from toners to setting sprays and collagen masks. Social media influencers often promote these items, encouraging their young followers to prevent wrinkles and crinkles as early as possible.
Rosemary deShazo, MD, a dermatologist and assistant professor in the Department of Dermatology at University of Utah Health, has seen the impact of these products on young, sensitive skin—and it's concerning.
“It’s unfortunate that so many teenagers are worried about aging,” deShazo says. “What they don’t realize is that they could be achieving the opposite effect by damaging their skin with harmful ingredients.”
Here are four things to know about “anti-aging” skin products:
1. “All-Natural” Products Aren’t Always a Safe Bet.
Social media influencers can be persuasive as they apply layers upon layers of high-end products that claim to be free of chemical toxins. While the labels may boast pure, all-natural ingredients, deShazo warns consumers not to be swayed by marketing buzzwords, such as gluten-free, paraben-free, and plant-based.
"All of those things are wonderful, but these products are oftentimes filled with irritants,” deShazo says. “This may come as a surprise, but many of the preservatives that claim to be harmful are actually very safe, especially compared to plant-based ingredients that can irritate the skin and cause rashes."
2. Sunscreen Is All You Need.
Everyone—of all ages—should get in the habit of applying sunscreen every day to prevent skin cancer, premature wrinkles, and sun damage.
"The only anti-aging product teenagers absolutely need is sunscreen. Wearing sunscreen daily will protect them from future wrinkles, discoloration, and skin cancer. That's really the best advice I can give my young clients who are unnecessarily worried about aging."
While shopping for sunscreens, look for products with these ingredients:
- Mineral-Based: Made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, this type of sunscreen effectively reflects harmful UVA rays away from the skin—and it’s safe for teens and tweens.
- Broad Spectrum: This type of sunscreen covers both UVA and UVB rays, protecting your skin from all the harmful effects of the sun.
- SPF 40 and Higher: Young skin is more vulnerable to the sun, so it’s important to look for products with a high SPF (sun protective factor), typically 30 and above.
- Fragrance-Free: Scented sunscreens can irritate the skin, so choose a product free of perfumes of any kind.
Pro Tip: It may take some trial and error, but finding a lightweight sunscreen is key. You're more likely to use it daily if it feels light and natural on your skin.
3. Your Dermatologist Can Guide the Way
Let’s face it: unless you’re a practicing physician, deciphering cosmetic ingredients is practically impossible. That’s why it’s important to consult with your dermatologist—not a department store salesperson—to determine which products are safe.
Here are some key ingredients teenagers should avoid:
- Retinoids: Commonly used in creams, ointments, and serums, retinoids are not recommended for young skin, often causing redness, peeling, and drying. Unless prescribed by a dermatologist, avoid products with retinol, retinal, and tretinoin.
- Botanical scents: Despite the lovely aromas of rosewater sprays and lavender lotions, botanical-scented products can irritate skin—and even cause painful rashes.
- Glycolic acids: A key ingredient in many toners, creams, and cleansers, glycolic acid poses many dangers to young skin, including burning, rashes, swelling, and peeling.
Note: See a dermatologist as soon as possible if you are experiencing persistent and painful skin irritations—and be sure to bring your skincare products with you.
4. You Don’t Need to Worry About Wrinkles
Being a teenager is hard enough without the constant pressure from glamorous beauty influencers pushing unattainable beauty standards. While treating her young patients, deShazo hopes to put their minds at ease and ultimately help them embrace what they see in the mirror.
"Simply put, teenagers don't have wrinkles," deShazo says. "They might see lines when they smile, but those are just natural facial expressions that vanish once they stop smiling or laughing. This is the time in your life to not worry about aging skin—enjoy it."
